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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.